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Clothing : Millinery Shop : The Millinery Shop

The Millinery Shop
by Edward R. Crews

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Milliner would change its meaning significantly in the 19th Century, which creates confusion among visitors. By the preferred by women later in the century.

By offering many goods, the 18th Century millinery shop attracted a wide range of customers, Whitacre said. A Colonial Williamsburg milliner probably served every class from the plantation owner to his slaves, who needed pins, needles and thread.

Margaret Hunter
Millinery shop owner Margaret Hunter, portrayed by Janea Whitacre (left), examines some of her cloth inventory with interpreters Doris Warren (center) and Krista Haines (right).

The best customers, though, were people with money, according to Whitacre. That meant the upper class and the middle class -- planters, tradesmen and shopkeepers. Modern Americans frequently are surprised to learn that these groups had clothes made for them by others.

"An impression we often encounter is that people in this period commonly made their own cloth and clothing," Whitacre said. "The truth is that very little of this was done at home. There simply wasn't enough time for one family to make its own cloth and clothing."

In addition, clothing producers knew then -- as they do now -- that one way to keep sales humming was to keep styles changing. The whirl of fashion during the 1700s was endless and often contradictory. Consider these facts. During the 18th Century, ladies' skirt styles changed five times. It was not unheard of for hat styles to change 17 times during a 2-year period.

Another factors that kept fashion in a stir was that no enduring consensus existed during the period as to what constituted stylish clothing. Commentators couldn't even agree on whether or not clothes made the man. It is impossible therefore even for just one year, like 1774, to say anything too absolute about what was appropriate, desired or trendy.

This lack of consensus, however, didn't blunt Virginians fascination with fashion, a fascination that might have been just a bit too keen. You get a sense that maybe Colonial Virginians were trying somewhat too hard to keep up with their English cousins.

"I came across a letter while doing some research that warned an Englishman planning a trip to the colonies that he'd better dress 'up' for success, if he was coming to Virginia," Whitacre said. "The letter writer said to him that you can get by in London without paying too much attention to your clothes. But, in Virginia, you'd better wear your best to make the right impression."